Friday, December 2, 2011

Kerala travelogue - Day 3 (22nd Nov 2011) - Thekkady - Welcome to the jungle

Kerala Toursim
Alleppey | Aymenem | Ernakulam | Fort KochiKalariyapattu | Kumarakom | Paranthampura | Thekkady | Vembanad |
Holiday Destinations in India

          A brand new exciting day as we were to move to the Jungle of Periyaar. Had booked an Indica for 4 days and our driver Noby could somehow locate us by 9:30. Young pleasant guy, who surprisingly knew a bit of Hindi but no English. Bidding adieu to Mr. Aboo, we started for Thekkady.


          All along, Noby was surprised that we were not going to Munnar. 'Moonaar best place in Kerala, Sir. You should be there for at least 3 days, Sir', he said. I was to be pinched more on this 'Moonar' bit for 4 more days. On the way we chatted about Mamooty and Mohan Lal. You will hardly see any Hindi movie posters in Kerala.

          As we approached Kottayam, the rubber plantations began, and it was everywhere - left, right, ahead, behind, everywhere !! Tall trees, swaying to the breeze, all bent on the same side, as if in a gymnastic drill. Plastics were tied to all the trees, and I'm sure you know why. The barks were cut in places and round bowls were attached for the sap to drip in. I got a closer look into this when we were returning back from Thekkady. Surprising to see that man has been able to interpret most of natures' givings and know what to use where and how.
Rubber plantation

Rubber Sap

Rubber Plantation

          Leaving behind Kottayam, we drove through the mountains of Kanjirapally and Peermedu. I kept asking Noby about sight seeing in Peermedu, but somehow it seems he didn't know the points to visit and kept saying that this is Peermedu and everything you get to see. And what we saw, needless to say was amazing - my first glimpse , or rather eyeful of the vast tea plantations. They occupied every inch of the mountain. As we rose through the ghats, so did the tea plantations and as we dipped through the valleys, so did they. There are really huge estates, one I can remember of is the 'Boyce' estate. It just seemed never ending. The sights of the mountains, valleys, the beautiful sky was great and you will enjoy every bit of it. It was made special by the old Hindi songs being played in our car.

Tea Plantation

Tea Plantation
          En route, we went to the Connamera tea factory, but it was closed that day (Monday). So, we finally landed to the hotel I had booked for our visit in Thekkady - Hotel Ambadi. It's a great place near to the Tourist Information centre. All wooden decor and our room had a bath tub too. The scenery was good and the cottages too looked pretty cosy. We also had a sitting place outside our room, all rooms did. I had a booked a deluxe room and was surprised to find no a/c. Mr. Kurien (I guess, the owner) said you will not require a/c here.
Hotel Ambadi

Room D19 at Hotel Ambadi


           Just kept my luggage and booked the 'Bamboo water rafting' at the Tourist information centre. 'Do not wear red and white and shoes are compulsory. Please report here by 7:30 am for tickets for the entrance to the sanctuary' - our instructions from the Tourist information centre. 
          We then booked our tickets for the Kalariyapattu show and since had time in hand before the show began, went to visit one of the Spice gardens, 'Deepa Spice'. Our attendant, Mr.Bashir was quite knowledgeable about the various plants and showed us the medicinal values of plants we commonly see and use. They have a small tree house built in the garden.

Coffee

Tree House

Spice Plantation

Spice Plantation
          From the plantation visit, we hurried to the Kalariyappatu show and it was total 'paisa vasool'.  Young guys, showing their talent bare handed, with various weapons, fire etc. Though the show was in breaks as they showed different facets and methodologies of the art-form, I would have liked to see a continuous fight for a greater duration. The music playing in the background matched to the players moves or maybe vice-versa. We then clicked photos with the boys.

Ode to God before the show


Bach sako to bach lo

Strike to kill

Kalaripayattu
Evening, just walked around the little shops and felt happy and excited about the next days adventurous activity. There is a beautiful big statue in the main market area.


Annotations:
  • The 'Tourist Information Centre' is open 24 x 7 and hosts various programs like Bamboo water rafting (a tour from 8 am to 4 pm - includes trek for almost 4-5 hours through the jungle and rafting on the Periyaar lake for 3 hrs - includes food and water for the day), night trek (for 3 hours), morning treks (for 3 hours) etc.
  • If you are interested in the Jeep Jungle Safari, you need to ask your hotel to arrange it for you.
  • Thekkady is the place for spices, so do all your organic spice buying from here.
  • Don't miss the Kalariyapattu show.
  • If you have a video cam and are visiting one of the spice plantations with a guided tour, record it, else you won't remember anything :)
  • The main gate of the Wild Life sanctuary is about 3 km from the Tourist information centre and after that you need to walk for another 1/2 km to reach the boat landing. They charge for entrance tickets (Rs25) - which surprisingly is not included in any of the packages arranged by the tourist info centre.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Kerala travelogue - Day 2 (21st Nov 2011) - Fort Kochi

Kerala Toursim
Alleppey | Aymenem | Ernakulam | Fort KochiKalariyapattu | Kumarakom | Paranthampura | Thekkady | Vembanad |
Holiday Destinations in India

          Got up to a fresh sunny morning in Fort Kochi. Skipped having breakfast at the homestay as I wanted to try out the local joints. Had medu wada, daal wada and appam with chana masala at one of the small local shops. Pretty good, I would say - that's the way to sink in !! There also was bonda, putta, egg masala (some were having it in the early morning with rice). Tea or Coffee almost everywhere in Kerala is served in a big glass (nearly 2-3 cups for us Mumbaikars).


          Dad wasn't feeling well as the full blown A/C in Duronto didn't suit him. So I decided against walking, and asked Mr.Aboo for alternate options and he arranged a Rickshaw for sightseeing. He also instructed the rick fellow to take my Dad to the doctor. We started with visiting the Santa Cruz Basilica. The church was full with the nearby convent kids as the Father was delivering a sermon. Waited for some time as the choir of little girls chanted sweetly. It felt good. The Lord, high there, behind the Father was blessing us, surrounded by stars. Saw the confession box as well, but decided against entering it as my stay would have extended considerably :) Saw beautiful pastel coloured angels flying on the interior walls of the Church. This is one of the oldest and beautiful churches in Kerala.

Santa Cruz Basilica

Santa Cruz Basilica


Santa Cruz Basilica


Santa Cruz Basilica

Santa Cruz Basilica


Bless us O' Lord, Santa Cruz Basilica

Santa Cruz Basilica

We then went to the 'Koonan Kurishu Shrine' towards the Mattenchary bus terminal. Boy, is this temple huge? It is !! You will like the temple as soon as you enter it and I would put it as a must visit place in Fort Kochi. The entrance is beautiful, and as you enter you see a tall multi-layered 'deep'. As you cross it, you see a huge bell and a person sitting and ringing it with a big chain tied to it. As I tried to go inside, the person ringing the bell said something I didn't understand. Later realised that you can go the inner boundary of the temple only after removing your upper body coverings/vests (only for men). As I did my 'Pradakshina' around the temple, saw a cattle pen behind. There were 2 guys playing the shehnai and mrudungam. Outside the main gate of the temple, on the opposite side, there is a small pond with a temple floating in the centre. You can bathe amidst the beautiful lotuses and wash away your sins. We just wet our feet in the calm and cold water.

Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Inside the Koonan Kurishu Shrine


Musicians at the Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Side view of the inside of the Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Back side of the Koonan Kurishu Shrine

One of the idols at the outer edifice of the Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Outside the Koonan Kurishu Shrine

Natures offering

We then visited a nearby ginger factory. You can buy spices from the outlet they have upstairs.

Ginger factory

Next we went to the Jain temple. Not many people in the temple that day. The 'Dutch Palace' was the next on list. From the outside, it doesn't seem outstanding at all and you will feel it to be not maintained and neglected for the historical importance it holds. The Palace converted into a museum hosts a gallery of the Rajas of Cochin and beautiful murals of Hindu Gods and Goddesses. The museum also exhibits old coins of a bygone era, weapons used by the Rajas and their armies. Some of these weapons were really interesting and we got a glimpse of them later in Thekkady at the 'Kalaripayattu' show.

Jain Temple


Jain Temple

Ceiling of the Jain Temple

Dutch Palace/Matancherry Palace

 After having coffee at one of the typical coffee houses (the nearest you can get to the Irani restaurants, i guess) in Mattancherry, we went to the St.Francis Church, which is near the beach. The Church was pretty quite till a bus offloaded a horde of picnickers. Time to leave, I thought, but not before visiting the Vasco-da-Gama tomb inside the church and a beautiful inscription on one of the last benches of the church, which said "I WILL GIVE YOU PEACE AND QUIETNESS" - much needed !!

St. Francis Church

St. Francis Church

St. Francis Church

Vasco-da-Gama tomb, St. Francis Church
We, yet again landed up at the Chinese Fishing Nets and saw Vipin island in the distance. You can catch a boat to Vipin island from the jetty at the end of the beach, after the fish selling shops. For a fish lover, the shops lining the water front are a visual treat as the eyes savour fishes in various shapes and colours, shrimps, karimeen (local delight), pompfret, bangda, surmai, tiger prawns, shell fish, octopuses etc. etc. etc. A boat had just brought a fresh catch of fish :)

Chinese Fishing Nets


Fresh catch


Tiger Prawns


Karimeen






Missed visiting the Jewish Synagogue as the rick fellow said it would open only after 3 pm so we returned to our homestay after having lunch at another local restaurant.

In the evening, walked to the Indo Portuguese Museum. It was closed, but the care taker was good enough to let us enter the premises which had a beautiful garden and an even beautiful statue of Lord Jesus in silver.
Indo Portuguese Museum

Indo Portuguese Museum

Indo Portuguese Museum
Indo Portuguese Museum

 We watched the sunset near the Chinese fishing nets and had dinner at one of the open air restaurants lining the water front. Walking down Princess Street, we did a bit of a shopping. Most of the wooden handicrafts here are made of rosewood. Saw an elephant, about a feet tall costing 3 lakhs INR, and I thought it would cost around 20,000 INR - ignorance, at its best.






Annotations:
The sight-seeing rick was negotiated to Rs.80 per hour from Rs.100.
I would put the the Santa Cruz Basilica, Koonan Kurishu Shrine, Chinese Fishing Nets on the must do list at Fort Kochi
If you are a non-vegetarian, don't miss out on the fish.
Didn't take the boat to Vipin island as I already had a lot of boating planned in my itinerary later, but wanted to visit the light house, which the rick fellow said is far from the Vipin jetty and Cherai beach even farther. If anyone visits the light house, do let me know your experience.
If you are an early riser, catch the fishermen cast their nets and use the extra large Chinese Fishing nets.

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Kerala travelogue - Day 1 (19th Nov 2011 - 20th Nov 2011)

Kerala Toursim
Alleppey | Aymenem | Ernakulam | Fort KochiKalariyapattu | Kumarakom | Paranthampura | Thekkady | Vembanad |
Holiday Destinations in India
         
         Started my journey on the 19th Nov 2011. Caught the LTT - Ernakulam Duronto at 08:50 pm. Watching people having their dinners packed and starting to eat before the train started, I thought, how foolish...the dinner is sponsored, then why did they get it from home. Well, they were the ones to have the last laugh as at 9:30, I realised that there's no free dinner and all you could get were veg sandwiches. Shame Shame!! This train is though no comparison to the Rajdhani, a train, I guess everyone loves. The overall service was kinda ok, not that great. The train ticket claimed no stops between Mumbai and Ernakulam, though it did keep us waiting at many stations before it reached Ernakulam Junction. I am sure the travel time can be reduced for most trains as the Nethravathi express I caught for coming back to Mumbai could also have reached much before time, if it had not stopped at some places forever (I am jumping too soon, more on that later AND maybe I'm the ignorant types about signals etc. - I guess I'll let them do there job, a good one too!!)

          We reached Ernakulam Junction at 6:00 pm next day. Please ensure what's your last stop on the train or where exactly you wanna get down as there are many Ernakulam stations viz. Ernakullam Town, Ernakullam junction, Ernakullam South, Ernakullam North...phew!! Took a tuktuk (rickshaw) for Fort Kochi (They have a pre-paid taxi booth you can try...I didn't, missed). The rick fellow gave a small Kochi Darshan as he speeded through the lanes. We passed through a nice looking traditional Kerala Temple which looked very nice from the outside, breezed pass the naval base, the old airport (not in use anymore, Sir...only politicians Charter planes land here, said the rick guy). He thought I was stupid to stay in Fort Kochi and not in Ernakulam - All shops are here in Ernakulam, Sir, and you will get cheap accommodation here, Sir, why go so far to Fort Kochi and waste your money, Sir - felt like telling him, go read the 'Kerala Outlook Traveller' which says so much about Fort Kochi, but never mind !
          Got the first glimpse of Keralas' vast Vembanad lake as we were crossing Willingdon island, hiding its big shipyard. There's something about the mountains and then there's something about the water - you just fall in love, I do!! We were to see Vembanad flowing all along as we tripped along out itenary in Kerala. A guy in the train told me that Ernakulam/Kochi is the only real city in Kerala, and I believe him after my entire trip, but it somehow is not your regular city, it retains its local outfit though donning the toursistry cap and jacket. I had booked the Honolulu Homestay on KB Jacob road - near to Santa Cruz Basilica for 2 days. Our host Mr.Abboo greeted us and took us to our room 'Jasmin', clean and cozy. Didn't have a television - didn't need one! Mr. Abboo helped us with what to see and also ran us through some programs which some of our neigbouring foreigners had just come from - a safari to see elephants being washed :). Didn't opt for that. He asked us if we were interested in a Kathakali performance but it was already late for it so we decided to go for a walk and he obliged by guiding us. As you would read in most places on the net, if you have leisurely time, Fort Kochi is best explored on your feet. We reached the beach through the 'Dutch Cemetery' road. The beach is not A beach as you would normally imagine but there are ample benches and rocks to laze around and enjoy the breeze as you see ships plying the waters near the coast. We walked on the footwalk and reached the 'Chinese fishing Nets'. Any new thing is a surprise and so was this one, even though I had seen umpteen images of it on the internet. It would be creative to see the fishermen use these huge nets to catch fish - I didn't get a chance to see them catching fish using them though :(
          Coming back via 'Princess Street', saw the various handicraft shops and open restaurants. The small shops hosting elephants in various forms, sculptures, necklaces, tourist garbs and garments, beautiful kashmiri shawls and matresses are really picturesque and bring in the tourist flavour. Most of these shops are run by Kashmiris, which I saw in Thekkady as well and in Goa and am sure in Rajasthan as well (who stays in Kashmir then, I wonder). Fresh catches of fish can be found at the little shops lining the water front and in the restaurants. My family and me particularly observed that the fish preparations here don't smell like they do in Mumbai, where I stay, of course. Saw the numerous homestays all along, on every street.
          There's nothing of a 'Fort' left in 'Fort Kochi', though I did see the remains of a fort wall at the Vasco-da-Gama square. That evening at the water front was more lively than usual as it was Sunday and had lots of the local crowd visiting it too!!
          Walking back we saw the Santa Cruz Basilica and promised ourselves to return to it in the morning and decided to call it a day!!

Annotations:
  • You have a pre-paid taxi/rickshaw booth at the Ernakulam Junction station. A rick to Fort Kochi would cost you around Rs.250
  • The best place to have food are the open restaurants near the water front or at any of the resorts (would be a little heavy on the pocket though, I guess)
  • Fish is really fresh here and doesn't smell and you have good options.
  • Homestays are a good option in Fort Kochi - believe me, there are plenty and Government approved ones too!!
  • Walk around - you'll like it - you are on a holiday anyway, aren't you...
  • Honolulu Homestay
    Santa Cruz Basilica
    Mr.Aboo(centre) with my parents