Showing posts with label Karjat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Karjat. Show all posts

Thursday, August 6, 2015

Sondai Fort – An offbeat destination, a fulfilling trek

The beautiful Morbe dam
I love the crowd, only if it’s the swaying blades of the green grass,
I enjoy the darkness, only if it’s amazed by the multitude of twinkling stars,
And I love the deafening sound of silence as I lie perched on the zenith, 
resting my hands on my knees, my eyes in awe,
I simply love the mountains, for everything….

Sondai is a small fort, well, less of a fort and more a watch tower. It’s a part of the Karjat or Matheran range of mountains. A less known fort, the name of the fort is derived from the temple of Goddess Sondai at the top of the mountain. Sondewadi, the base village for the trek is a small hamlet of a few huts. Alighting at Karjat station, one needs to get out at the east end and catch a 6/7 seating rickshaw called a tumtum to reach Sondewadi which is around 11-12 kms from Karjat. On the way to Sondewadi, one can catch glimpses of the Morbe dam but rest assured that this is not the best view of the dam one can get on this trek. There are no shops at Sondewadi, so one is better off buying whatever they need from Karjat station.

This again was a trek with Tattva adventures and the count was 26 this time. So, we ‘Special Chabees’, celebrating Friendship Day, embarked on our trek and right ahead we could see the summit we were heading for. The rain God eluded us on this trek and it was extremely hot and humid as panting and puffing, we climbed the mountain. The trek is through a less dense forest and one can reach the top of the fort in about an hour or so. Though a relatively easy trek, it has got quite a few rock patches and one needs to be careful at these. Some of these rock patches have carved steps but in the rains it could pose to be a little tricky. After about 40 minutes of trekking, one reaches a plateau and as one turns back; the Morbe dam lies there, spread with open arms, calm and placid like a map from an atlas. Right ahead, in the distance one can see the peak of Irshalgad and to the right, the peaks of Matheran mesmerize the onlooker. These peaks of Matheran like Garbett point, One Tree Hill etc. are other trekking destinations.

To the left of the Morbe dam, lies the smaller Vavarle dam. From the plateau, one can see the iron ladder which takes us to the top of the mountain. There are two water cisterns to the left, carved in the rocks, but from the look at the water, it didn’t look like potable water. Another 10 minutes of climb from these cisterns and one comes across a rock patch which is at the edge of the mountain. It’s a free climb of about 15 feet and firm grips of both hands and feet are needed. Needless to say one needs to be extra careful while crossing this patch. Once the rock patch is crossed, the iron ladder takes us almost to the peak of the fort.

The top of the fort is a very small plateau with the idol of Goddess Sondai sitting peacefully under a tree. It is advisable to remove your footwear here. There are no structural remnants of the fort. Our local guide informed us that during Diwali, the temple attracts people from the nearby villages to give their offerings to the Goddess. He also told us that when the dams weren’t there, the villagers climbed all the way up the mountain to get their reserve of water from the cisterns. A ‘bhagwa’ orange flag with Chattrapati Shivaji Maharaj’s face flutters high in the sky. There is nothing much to do on the top. ‘Nothing much to do’ however is an understatement when you have such breathtaking views on the palette around you. One of my trek mates drew my attention to an amazing feat of nature. On the layered green mountain that lay ahead, a patch of grass was swaying in a wavy dance, and the small bushes, as if another part of the troupe, were dancing in a hypnotic trance; a perfect symphony to the orchestrating wind that our eyes relished and embraced.


We lay on the grass, resting, lazing after having our packed lunches, appreciating the magnificence of nature. And then it was time to descend and go back home but before heading home we spent some time in the flowing water of the Morbe dam, a little away from Sondewadi. It was a very enjoyable and thrilling trek; marred only by the absence of the rains. But then, one can’t always be lucky, can they?


The peak of Sondai fort
Irshalgad to the left and Matheran peaks to the right
A small rock patch
Rock patch
Towards the top
Iron ladder - pic courtesy Somenath Mukherjee
Sondewadi village from the top

Sondai Devi temple
Neighboring mountain peaks
Morbe dam from the top 
Matheran range

Morbe dam





Lazing at the summit

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Vikatgad or Peb fort - Romancing the clouds


26th July, just a date on the calendar? Not for many Mumbaikers a few years back in 2005, when the torrential rains created havoc in the city and the metropolis was flooded causing deaths to many, disrupting lives, destroying infrastructure and bringing the city to a standstill. To all the lives lost, may their souls rest in peace!

26th July 2015, a Sunday, another day on the calendar, an unforgettable one for a batch of 30 trekkers on their way to Vikatgadh or Peb killa. The monsoons are a trekker’s delight and the skies promised us of a nice wet day. A few first timers, a few experienced ones, we were an odd lot but the enthusiasm was just as much as needed. Vikatgad is so named as it is claimed that it’s shaped like Lord Ganesha. It’s also called Peb killa, deriving its name from the Goddess Pebi.

Vikatgadh is one of the many forts lining the Karjat range of mountains in district Raigad, standing tall at a height of 2100 feet. From Neral station, one needs to take a share auto to a village called Fanaswadi, about 3-4 kms from Neral. On a weekend, Neral station is flooded by the multitude of trekkers and tourists on a trip to the hill station of Matheran. Outside the station is a vegetarian restaurant ‘Sai Shraddha’ which is where most of the trekkers halt for a quick bite before they embark on their trek, hot wadas and missal paav being the all time favourites. There are also other stalls outside Neral station and it is advisable to get something packed before you start your trek if you are not carrying a packed lunch.

The trek starts from Fanaswadi and at the base, surrounded by the village and farms; one can see the ‘V’ shape in the mountain ahead which happens to be where one is heading. The peak of Vikatgadh is marked by the temple of Swami Samarth. This is an arduous trek and tests your endurance. Completely uphill and through the jungle, it took us almost 3 hrs to reach the summit. We were guided by a local villager. Treading over rocks of various shapes and sizes, one needs to be extra careful in the rains. Walking the ridges, there are places where all there is space for is a single step and a slip could have you tumbling, bouncing and landing in the valley below. And after about an hour and half of trekking, one comes across a rock patch which is a difficult one. These are actually two patches bundled into one, the latter almost impossible to be done without a helping hand or a rope unless you are an experienced rock climber. I and many others were literally pulled up by our guide and the trek leaders. I, for sure couldn’t have done it alone since its right in your face, almost 10 feet tall and there is hardly any foothold to stick your foot into and heave yourself upward. There are a couple of other rock patches which are not as difficult as the one mentioned.

Once the first rock patch is crossed, the scenery opens up to a visual delight. What we saw is near inexplicable; rather words are a futile medium for expressing the ravishing beauty. The canvas of tall green mountains, the vast landscape, the lashing rains, tricking waterfalls, the dark clouds and the strong wind calms not only your soul but eases the mind off the pain in your legs. The highlight of the scenery was the scattering and playful clouds. Hiding the landscape, and magically making them appear the next moment, the clouds were romancing the mountains like never before. Enchanting, enthralled!

Another 30 minutes of climb and one comes across a big cave at the edge of the mountain with an idol of Shivaji Maharaj and a Shivling. The cave is maintained by disciples of Swami Samarth. This is a good place to have lunch if you want to but take care not to litter. Walking against the line of the cave, about 200 meters ahead comes the first ‘shidi’ or ladder. An iron ladder which sways midway, how adventurous and the weak hearted dare not see below. Once the ladder is crossed, there are a few other rock patches but not as difficult as the first one and then you come to an open space from where you can see the other side of the valley below and the temple above you. This is where we had lunch, saving ourselves from the wrath of the chasing monkeys. Beware of the monkeys; they won’t stop short of slapping you at the cost of grabbing your food. A climb of another few minutes and you reach the temple. Oh, what a sight, a temple almost suspended in air, at the peak, at the edge and wherever your eyes roam, the sight is a joy to celebrate. Experiencing the magic is what needs to be done; this blog is too small to portray what you actually see and feel there. Into the distance, one can see the Chanderi pinnacle and Doodhani dam.


Spending some time there, we moved ahead. We didn’t go back the way we came, thankfully for many of us. We crossed two more shaky ladders, one person at a time, and took the path which leads to the toy train tracks of Matheran. Walking to Dasturi Naka along the tracks, from where we were to catch a shared cab to get down the Matheran Ghat to reach Neral station, you come across a huge beautiful idol of Lord Ganesha partly carved out of rock. Zigzagging and zooming down the ghat, we reached Neral in no time and were on our way back home.

This by no means is an easy trek, rather a wee bit more than ‘medium’ grade but one of the best and most enjoyable treks I have ventured on till now!